The 15 Ft. Sandpiper flotation is enough to float the boat, but stern up.  The Sandpiper has always had enough flotation to keep the boat from sinking to the bottom should it capsize. However, all this flotation has been under the cockpit seats, which means that the boat will float stern high. In the "bow down" attitude, salvage has been difficult.

We test-sank our own boat this past summer and now know that two to three cubic feet of flotation is all that is required to bring the bow up. Kayak flotation bags fit around the mast quite well. We are looking at a system of a C02 air bag that would be fastened under the fore deck and inflated after a capsize

.The submerged weight of the 15 Ft. Sandpiper, including 200 pounds of lead ballast, is just over 510 pounds. (This is substantially different than the dry weight.) The flotation under the seats alone provides about 600 ponds of buoyancy.

Now we have fitted flotation bags that neatly fill the forepeak, adding about three cubic ft of buoyancy to the bow. This is more than enough to keep the bow on the surface.

During our test sinking, we felt that adding 1.6 cubic feet of inflated bag wasn't quite enough. While it provided a neutral buoyancy, we wanted more.

The two kayak bags we now offer -- even when inflated only 50% -- provide 2.6 cubic feet of buoyancy, or almost 160 pounds of flotation. The smaller of the two fits forward of the mast. The larger bag fits between the mast and the forepeak bulkhead. We use two shock cord ties to hold everything in place. You can either inflate with an air tank or blow them up yourself.

We offer these kits for $75.  Included are the two 20 ml vinyl bags, hardware and instructions.

They are in stock, so either give us a call at (508) 994-0414, or have a closer look at the flotation bags on our Accessories web page.

I remember Breck being asked by two people if they could have a specific hull number, and he agreed. So, they both swear they have the same one.  After 1976, we organized the hull numbers in the sequence they were molded, with the original owner's name.

Since 1972 all boats have had a 12-digit number scribed on the hull on the aft starboard corner of the transom underneath the rub rail.

If your boat was built before this date, your state will assign you a unique HIN.

We install a bronze pin all the way through the trunk and board, and then using small squares of fiberglass matt, we permanently encase the ends. The pin is located in the lower forward corner of the centerboard trunk. Look at floorboard level, and you will see a bulge.

The only maintenance required is to change the pennant every few years, and cover the board with anti-fouling paint each season.

As with our new boat installations, you end up with a box a little lower than cockpit seat level. It makes a handy table, but people tell us they bark their shins on it, especially if they are used to the open cockpit.

Don't let this discourage you, though. The main sheet will never foul the outboard. The controls are much easier to use. The engine is more reliable. It uses less than a quart of fuel an hour. And, the boat looks so much better without the outboard hanging off the transom.

Many Marshall Catboat owners have factory-installed Diesel engines.  The Diesel engine's ease of operation, fuel efficiency, safety and simple maintenance makes it ideal for marine applications.   However, Diesel engines are not cheap, and unless correctly maintained, you will find yourself with a very expensive mooring for your dinghy.

Just a few simple maintenance procedures in the Spring and fall will give you years of satisfactory service from your investment. 

• Always use a good quality oil for Diesel engines.  It will say it on the can.  We use a 30 HD weight.

• Change your oil and filter on a regularly scheduled basis during the season, and as a last act in the Fall.

• It is equally important to change your Diesel fuel filter on a regular basis.

• Every Spring, the alternator belt should be inspected and adjusted for proper tension.  If it looks worn or frayed, it should be replaced.

• Throttle and clutch linkages should be greased with a good Teflon grease such as Superlube.

• Another engine-related item to check during Spring tune-ups is your battery!  Clean both terminal posts to insure good electrical connections.  Put a thin coating of Superlube on the connections to prevent oxidation.

• In the Fall, top up your fuel tank and add a biocide/conditioner.

This bearing supports the propeller shaft as it exits the boat.  It is bronze with a rubber sleeve.  Through use or engine misalignment, this rubber wears out, and the shaft can wobble as it rotates.  At our yard, we check each boat as it is hauled to see if it is loose.

On the older boats with an outside stuffing box, it is just a matter of removing the propeller and shaft, and then removing the entire bronze casting.  Using an arbor press, carefully press out the old bearing, and then press in the new one.  Now reinstall the casting, shaft and propeller on the boat.

Most of the boats built since 1976 have been fitted with an inside stuffing box.   This makes it easier to tighten the gland, but significantly complicates replacement of the cutlass bearing.

Again, remove the propeller and shaft.  Now, with hacksaw blades, cut through the rubber and bronze of the old bearing.  You can't use a proper hacksaw, as the blade has to extend into the middle of the bearing.  Make a second cut close to the first, and with pliers (or whatever) remove this little wedge of bearing.  What you are trying to do is take a small section of the bearing out so that you can decrease its diameter.  This way, you can eventually pry and wriggle the old bearing out.   This whole operation could easily take more than an hour.

Cutlass bearings are named after fish.  WE have always used a "Bonito." As you have learned, the bearing fits very tightly in the casing.   When new, we use a press to install it.  Now, you will have to use a hammer and a block of wood.  

A cool trick is to freeze the bearing first.  This will make it shrink just a little bit and it may go in easier.  With a wood block over the end, drive your new bearing in with vigor. 

Remember, with friction (bearing moving into casing) comes heat, so do this part quickly. You may not get it driven in all the way.  Don't panic.  If it's less than an inch, just cut the exposed part off with a hacksaw.  Now put the shaft and propeller back in. 

Be aware of the following: a worn cutlass bearing could indicate improper engine alignment, so re-check this when the work is done.

Also, it is quite possible that your shaft has worn too.  If this is the case, don't hesitate to get a new one.  You don't want to do this whole job again next season... or sooner.

Most marine shops, including our own service department can perform this maintenance for you, if you feel that you may not want to tackle this.  It can be a bit daunting, even to a seasoned "Do-It-Yourselfer."

We offer replacement cutlass bearings, shafts and propellers for all of out boats.   Included are all the parts, hardware and instructions.  You will have to provide the freezer...    They are in stock, so either give us a call at (508) 994-0414, or have a closer look at your options on our Accessories web page.

• Clean and wax the hull. Use a rubbing compound if the gelcoat appears chalky,
  or if you have a colored hull.

• Don't forget to wax the mast and saddle plate several times a season. Hull wax works fine. It keeps everything sliding smoothly.

• Clean and oil the teak. If the grain is raised, sand with 100 grit paper before oiling. If the trim is bright, two coats of varnish is always better than one.

• Varnish the tiller or the wheel spokes. Check your gudgeons and pintles for wear…especially on Sanderlings and Sandpipers.

• Grease the steering rack gear on the 22's.

• Spray some lubricant onto the tack pins at the tack and throat. These freeze up with salt corrosion, and more of thee fittings are broken every year than anything.

• Have a Diesel inboard?  See the Spring & Fall Diesel maintenance tips in the FAQ section below.

• Since several Marshall Catboat owners have found our chart containing line lengths so useful in the past, we are offering both the line chart and the companion rigging illustration for your reference.  See the Rigging Length of Line Chart or Rigging Illustration page on our web site.